Harness fit in a bit more depth

Here at K9 Trail Time we are constantly researching and learning more about dog anatomy and physiology to help us understand the impact working a dog in harness will have on the natural movement of the dog. Part of this study has involved reading the latest research into dog movement undertaken by Dr Martin Fischer in the Jena study and his most recent work which has yet to be published. The findings have been summarised nicely here:

https://www.dogsymposium.nl/professor-dr-martin-fischer/

You might be thinking ‘what has this got to do with me and my dog?’ but we believe that to understand the dogs’ natural motion helps us to understand why a harness may or may not work for your dog based on it’s skeletal structure and how it was designed to move.

The first thing to say is that dogs are designed to move most efficiently in a ‘trotting’ gait and so if your dog is a trotter when they are pulling, they are using their energy efficiently and moving minimally. If your dog is ‘bounding’ when pulling in harness, either in a canter or a gallop (more likely at higher speeds when attached to a bike or scooter but if you run fast enough then canicross too) then your dog is exerting more effort than the efficient trot pace and it is even more important you have the correct fitting harness to ensure they have the freedom of movement necessary so as not to restrict them in any way.

The single biggest problem we see is harnesses which are too big on the dog and so are inadvertently restricting shoulder movement because the neck of the harness is encroaching on the shoulder when the dog moves. It is so important the neck on your sport harness is nice and snug to avoid this restriction but also to avoid your harness slipping up into the armpit of your dog when they might pull to one side and this again then restricts shoulder movement.

Below are 4 pictures of one of the K9 Trail Time dogs, Yogi, in 4 different sizes of the Non-stop Freemotion harness and in all honestly to the untrained eye it might be hard to tell which fits and which doesn’t. From top to bottom Yogi is wearing the size 4 Yellow flash (too small) size 5 Red flash (perfect fit) size 6 Blue flash (too big) and size 7 White flash (far too big).

Now looking at these picture you might think the size 6 is the one which fits Yogi best and we’d agree that based purely on the photos, it does perhaps look like it is sitting in the best place but if you look closely the top of the shoulder is slightly restricted and when slotting your hand in the neck (you can’t tell that from the photo) there is a huge amount of room for the harness to slide around on his neck. The size 4 is obviously too small being too close behind his front legs and the angle is wrong on his ribs. The size 7 is obviously too big, coming too far back on his body and when he pulls into it, the straps on his ribs will come behind the last ribs and pull up into his soft stomach region – not good!

At this point it is also worth saying you cannot always tell correct harness fit from a photo. Yogi is an easier candidate to judge from a photo because he lacks thick fur but even then you can only tell the neck on the size 6 Freemotion was too loose by feeling the gap when it is pulled tight. We see a lot of people asking for advice on social media and lots of people who comment haven’t got the first idea what they are even looking for, let alone have the experience to make a critical evaluation of harness fit based on a couple of photos!

Our advice would be if you’re unsure about your dogs’ harness fit get along to see someone who is experienced with correct harness fit in person and let them have a feel of the harness on your dog and observe how they move in it, this is by far the best way to get proper advice on harness fit. By asking people on social media you risk getting bad advice and ending up with something which could potentially cause your dog damage in the long term.

Another thing to look out for is that your harness is not too long. This doesn’t happen so often with the shorter harnesses although you do have to ensure the harness is not coming back behind the last ribs and pulling up into the stomach area. Again I have used pictures of Yogi below to demonstrate this (because he lacks the thick fur of my others!).

In the first photo the Zero DC Short is too big and is sitting right on the end of his rib cage. When Yogi pulls forward properly in this harness it will come further back still from where it is sitting in the photo and pull up behind his ribs into his stomach. In the second photo the Zero DC Short is much more snugly fitting on his neck and sits better against his ribs, you can still see he has room behind his front legs for movement but because of his (relatively) deep chest compared to his length the harness is sitting further forward on him than it would ideally.

The below photo of Judo shows the Zero DC Short harness as an ideal fit on him and as you can see it sits much further back from the front legs than on Yogi, this is because Judo hasn’t got the deep chest that Yogi has but this harness is still fitting him correctly and not restricting his shoulder by being too big or by coming too far along the ribs and likely to pull into the stomach.

It is most important with the longer harnesses that they are not too long as this can really have an impact on the way your dog moves. With a harness such as an X-Back or even the Zero DC Long you need to be very careful that when the harness is pulled into that it doesn’t extend back beyond the base of the tail. This may mean that when the harness is not being pulled into it looks as if it may be too short. I think this is demonstrated perfectly in the photo below.

Donnie is wearing the Zero DC Cross harness and it’s the correct size for him, however when it’s not being pulled it seems to sit quite far up his back. You can’t really see (the problem with a hairy dog) but it’s sitting perfectly on his neck and has enough clearance behind his front legs so that it will not be restricting front shoulder movement in any way.

You can see from the photo of the harness being pulled that it’s now sitting further back on his body and along the ribs in the correct way. The black webbing straps (not the cord) come to the base of his tail when the harness is pulled and will come back even a fraction more if he were to pull strongly into it, so it is in the correct place for a well fitted x-back harness.

Below is a photo of Donnie in an x-back harness which he used to wear (when he was heavier) and you can see what a harness looks like if it is too long. The length of the side straps mean it’s coming right back onto his hips when it is pulled and this will be even worse when he pulls forward into the harness. The neck on this harness is actually still ok and not causing any restriction to his shoulder but that extra length means the harness will be putting pressure on his hips if he bounds forwards and really pulls into this harness which is not great for his natural movement and could cause him to get sore spots in this area with repeated use.

So hopefully this blog and these photos give you a bit more of an insight into how your dogs’ harness should fit on your dog. We offer a free harness consultation service for our customers and you can either come and see us in person at one of our trade stands or pop up shops listed here:

https://www.facebook.com/pg/K9TrailTime/events

or we do offer an online service for those who can’t make an event. If you are interested then e-mail us at info@k9trailtime.com after answering the questions here:

https://www.k9trailtime.com/information/harness-consultation-questions

If you can get to an event then that is always the best way to get a harness fitted for your dog, however we have successfully fitted thousands of happy, active, dogs with harnesses based on information taken online. So why not get in touch and see what might work best for your dog for the sport you take part in.

Happy trails!

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How to measure your dog for a harness

I thought I’d write this blog to help those who struggle with measuring for a new harness for their dog. Measuring your dog might sound easy, but the reality is that many manufacturers use different measurements to make themselves unique and dogs will inevitably move around a lot when you are trying to take measurements, making it hard for you to get it accurate.

A few of the important things to look for in the perfect harness

A few of the important things to look for in the perfect harness

My top 3 tips are:

1 – Get a soft tape measure or long piece of string, there is no point trying to fold a more rigid tape measure around your dog in the hope you will be able to guess correctly.

2 – Measure at least 3 times on different occasions, this will ensure you get a true picture of the measurements and allow you to pick an average if all your measurements are different.

3 – Get someone to help you keep your dog as still as possible, you might want to do this using bribes or just having an extra pair of hands to keep your dog in a standing position will make your life easier.

Where to measure:

Neck: This is the most important bit and the measurement people get the most wrong! For Non-stop, Howling Dog Alaska, Zima, Manmat and in fact most other harnesses, except the Zero DC harnesses, the measurement you need is from the breast bone on the front of the dog to the back of the neck, before the shoulder blades. This is the trickiest measurement to get right and so I recommend measuring one side of the neck and doubling it, as getting a tape to curve around and stay in place is nearly impossible.

You can see very clearly in this picture where the neck of the harness should sit - this is what you are trying to measure - Photo courtesy of Karen Richardson

You can see clearly in this picture where the neck of the harness should sit – this is what you are trying to measure – Photo courtesy of Karen Richardson

For the Zero DC harnesses, the measurement you need is the collar measurement and this should be easier to obtain than the breastbone to shoulders, as the collar area is smaller and you can even measure your dogs’ collar to get the fit. The other thing you may have to consider is if your dog has a particularly large head or broad shoulders then this will affect the size of harness you need and this is why the neck measurement is the most important one to get correct.

Ribs: In my opinion the easiest measurement to get, measure just behind the front legs of your dog at the widest part of the chest. Pull the tape snug but not digging in and make sure there is enough flex in the tape to accommodate the movement of the ribs when taking deep breaths.

The girth needs to be tight enough to stop the harness sliding around from side to side but again not restrict the dogs' ribs to allow them to breathe fully

The girth needs to be tight enough to stop the harness sliding around from side to side but again not restrict the dogs’ ribs to allow them to breathe fully

Length: This is usually the distance from the shoulder blades to base of tail, it can be easy to measure if your dog stands straight as in the picture above, or difficult if your dog wriggles around, as the tape needs to be as straight as possible to get the correct length! This distance is where you would expect the harness to sit behind the neck and if a long design, where the harness should ideally end.

There is another length measurement generally used for x-backs which runs from the breastbone, through the front legs and then up the side of the dog to the base of the tail. The only harness we sell which this applies to is the Zima x-backs.

This picture shows the measurement along the side of the dog for length in an x-back harness.

This picture shows the measurement along the side of the dog for length in an x-back harness.

Other measurements: The Non-stop Freemotion and Nansen Nome harnesses refer to a front strap measurement for their size guides. This is taken again from the breastbone to just behind the dogs’ front legs where the harness would sit on the dog and Non-stop recommend if your dog is particularly deep chested then you should go up a harness size based on this measurement.

Weight: Very often a weight is given as a guide too, this just gives an indication of the size and can be helpful if you’re struggling with the measurements, as most people can get an accurate weight from their dog at the vets or dog groomers.

Other considerations:

Coat, if your dog has a double layer coat then the size and shape of your dog may change through the seasons and this will affect how the harness will fit. You might find you measure in winter and your dog is a whole harness size larger than in the summer, when the under coat has been shed.

Breed –  Some breeds of dog will just find it hard to fit into standard sized harnesses and although many have adjustment in them, most will not have any adjustment on the neck, which may mean you need a custom made harness. We can get the Zero DC harnesses custom made, so if you need any help or advice contact us: info@k9trailtime.com

Case Study: I’m going to give you an example of the measurements of one of my dogs and the harnesses he fits in as a guide, he is a fairly lean collie cross but quite tall and weighs about 21 kgs (46 lbs)

Judo is a fairly standard size but even he doesn't quite match the size guides for some harnesses!

Judo is a fairly standard size but even he doesn’t quite match the size guides for some harnesses!

Judo 

Neck (base of neck, most used measurement) 18 inches 46 cms

Collar 15 inches 38 cms

Ribs 26 inches 66 cms

Length 25 inches 63.5 cms

X-back length 27 inches 68.5 cms

Front strap length 24 cms

Harnesses (a selection of our most popular)

Non-stop Freemotion – Size 6 – 25-32kg Neck opening 39-44cm Front strap 24cm Nb: Although the neck would appear too small and weight too big, I find he fits comfortably in the Size 6

Non-stop Nansen Nome – Size 6 25-32kg Neck opening 44-49cm Front strap 24cm (Inches 17.3-19.3 9.4) Nb: Although the weight is too big again, he fits this harness beautifully

Non-stop Half – Size 5 Neck opening 46cm  Ribs 65 – 80cm 20-26kg

Zero DC Short – S/M Neck 40 – 44 cms Chest 65 – 80 cms Back 45 – 55 cms Nb: Although neck would say too big and length too short, this fits perfectly

Zero DC Long – Medium:  Neck 39-43 cm, Chest 64-70 cm, Back 52-57 cm Nb: Although neck would say too big and length too short, this too fits perfectly

Howling Dog Alaska Tough Skin – Medium: Neck 19.5-20 inches (50 – 59 lbs.) All this would say it was too big but the small is too snug!

Manmat Shoulder Harness – Small: Neck 20 inches (approx) Again just on this neck size it would suggest too big but it’s fine

What this shows is that although you can measure very accurately – you still might need to exchange it for a different size! We have a very simple exchange policy at K9 Trail Time, if you need to exchange it, as long as it’s only been tried on we will exchange it for you. We would however, prefer to try and get it right first time, so if you need any help please do check out the measuring guides on the website: http://www.k9trailtime.com/information/measuring-guides and e-mail us with your dogs’ measurements for any additional help at info@k9trailtime.com

We are always happy to help fit your dogs' harness so you are completely happy with it, free of charge

We are always happy to help fit your dogs’ harness so you are completely happy with it, free of charge